ISTANBUL · BOSPHORUS
A Turkish night is an evening of food, music and dance that brings together many traditions from across Anatolia and beyond in a single programme. In Istanbul it is often combined with dinner, and on the Bosphorus it becomes an evening on the water with the city lights all around you. If you have never seen one, the variety can be surprising: a spiritual whirling ceremony, a glittering belly dance and high-energy folk dances may follow one another within an hour. This guide explains what you are watching, where each dance comes from and how to enjoy the evening.
The whirling dervish comes from the Mevlevi order, which is associated with Mevlânâ Celâleddîn-i Rûmî, the 13th-century poet and mystic who lived in Konya. In the sema ceremony, dancers in tall felt hats and long white skirts turn slowly and continuously to the sound of the ney (reed flute) and other instruments, one hand raised towards the sky and the other turned towards the earth. For the Mevlevi it is a form of remembrance and prayer, not entertainment. The Mevlevi Sema Ceremony is recognised by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. On a Turkish night stage you see a short, respectful representation of this tradition, usually performed calmly and with soft lighting, which is why it often feels like the quietest moment of the evening.
Belly dance, called oryantal in Turkish, is one of the best-known parts of a Turkish night. The Turkish style is known for being lively and expressive, with fast hip movements, playful use of rhythm and, often, finger cymbals (zil). Dancers wear sparkling, embroidered costumes with beads and sequins, and the music may be played live or from recordings, depending on the venue. Some shows feature a solo dancer, others a group, and performers sometimes invite guests to join in for a moment. Joining is always your choice.
Turkish folk dances differ from region to region, and a show usually presents a selection. Halay, from the east and south-east of Turkey, is a line or circle dance in which dancers hold hands or link arms while the leader waves a handkerchief; it is traditionally accompanied by the davul drum and the zurna. Horon, from the Black Sea coast, is very fast, with quick shaking movements and tight lines of dancers following the sound of the kemençe, a small bowed fiddle. Zeybek, from the Aegean region, is slow, proud and dignified, danced solo or in groups with wide, controlled movements that recall the heroic figures of local folklore.
Caucasian dances are fast and energetic, with rapid footwork, jumps and dramatic spins; some stage versions include sword or knife elements as part of the choreography. Roma (Romani) dances are joyful and full of rhythm, often in the distinctive 9/8 beat that is popular at Turkish celebrations, and they tend to get the whole audience clapping along. The shaman dance is a stage performance inspired by the shamanic traditions of the Turkic peoples of Central Asia; with drums, costumes and dramatic movement, it evokes an ancient spiritual heritage rather than recreating a specific ritual.
A Turkish night usually starts with dinner and calmer music, then the performances follow one after another, each with its own costumes and music. The order varies from show to show, but many programmes move from the spiritual to the festive, ending with lively music and dancing in which guests can take part. On a dinner cruise, the programme is combined with views of palaces, mosques, bridges and waterfront neighbourhoods along the Bosphorus.
Arrive on time so you do not miss the beginning of the programme, and choose a seat with a clear view of the stage if seating allows. Evenings on the water can be cooler than in the city, so a light jacket or scarf is a good idea, even in summer. Tipping performers is optional and entirely up to you. For reference, Mina Cruise’s Bosphorus dinner cruise lasts about 3 hours; its show includes the whirling dervish, a shaman dance, Turkish Roma and Caucasian dances, a belly dance group, a folk dance show with traditional Turkish dances, a belly dancer and a professional DJ, and the menu is alcohol-free with unlimited soft drinks.